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Learn how to design and 3D print a protective case for a TCR tester with Fusion 360 software. Get a step-by-step guide to create the perfect custom enclosure with added features, such as a slider switch for battery disconnection.

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[0:00] Hey everyone,
[0:02] I’ve had one of these TCR testers for a while now they are a nice bit of kit
[0:07] but they come as a bare-bones PCB and not much else
[0:11] So, I’ve been wanting to design and 3D print a case for it for some time.
[0:15] Let’s get into fusion 360 and do something
[0:20] I’ve created a model of the tester and I’ve also downloaded a couple of extra components:
[0:25] A battery and a slider switch
[0:28] I want to add a switch so I can completely

[0:30] disconnect the battery when the tester is not in use.
[0:34] The first thing we’ll do is create a sketch to design the top part of the case.
[0:39] I’ll project geometry from the tester through to the sketch

[0:42] and I’ll turn all of this into construction lines
[0:50] For the push button and the ZIF socket,

[0:52] I’ll just offset the lines by one millimetre to give them some space.
[1:00] For the bolt holes, we’ll just make some four-millimetre holes

[1:04] these should fit my M3 bolts without any problems
[1:11] For the LCD, I’ve measured the height of the display at 30 millimetres

[1:16] and I’ll inset from the edges by one millimeter.
[1:27] I’ll also add some additional circles around the bolt holes on this sketch.
[1:30] I’ll extrude these on the bottom to create pillars down to the PCB.
[1:40] For the case sides, I’ll just offset from the PCB by two millimetres

[1:45] and make them two millimetres wide.
[1:57] That’s our initial sketch done. If we extrude this we can see what it will look like.
[2:11] It looks good I just need to go back and make room for the ZIF lever on the socket.
[2:16] I’ll make a couple of sketch lines to chop out a section for this and remove it from the extrusion.
[2:26] This now looks good we can extrude the pillars down to the surface of the PCB

[2:31] and also extrude the sides down to the surface making sure we have a slot for our ZIF lever.
[2:42] With that done we can now extrude down the full height of the case.
[2:46] I’ll need to make another sketch just to get the complete sides.
[2:59] For the bottom of the case I’ll add some pillars here with a hole for our brass inserts.
[3:04] From previous experiments, I know that a hole of around 4.5 millimetres works well for these.
[3:21] We can now extrude the base
[3:31] That’s our case almost done.
[3:33] I’m going to split the case into two halves so I can fit the components insides.
[3:37] I’ll quickly measure to see how tall it is and then create an offset plane halfway through.
[3:44] With that created we can split the body into two halves.
[3:48] I’ll rename these so I know which one is which.
[3:55] We can now go back and extrude the support pillars up to the PCB.
[3:59] I’ll make sure I leave a bit of play to allow for printing inaccuracy.
[4:08] The next thing I want to do is position the slider switch.
[4:16] With that positioned in a suitable place, I’ll cut out a hole

[4:20] from the top and bottom of the case so the slider switch can be moved on and off.
[4:24] I’ll also add a small chamfer to this to make it more comfortable to use.
[4:39] We now need to add some support for the switch so it’s held in place.
[4:43] We’ll add some vertical extrusions to hold it vertically

[4:47] and then we’ll just add something for the switch to slide into.
[5:47] That should be perfect.
[5:54] The last thing I want to do is place a lip around the join

[5:57] so the top of the case is guided into the correct position.
[6:15] I’ll add a chamfer to this overhang to help with the printing.
[6:27] And now we just extrude the lip up.
[6:29] I’ll add a small fillet to the lip and also to the top just to make it easier to slide the top over.
[6:48] That’s our case almost complete.
[6:50] I just want to go back and add a fillet it to all the corners so that it’s nice and rounded.
[7:02] We can easily rewind ourselves back to the original case

[7:06] select all the edges and apply a fillet.
[7:16] Moving back to the latest changes our box is now complete.
[7:20] We’ll send both halves off to the printer.
[7:29] Assembly is pretty quick and simple.
[7:31] We insert the brass thread insert using our soldering iron.
[7:52] Wire up the switch.
[8:06] And then screw the box together with some M3 bolts.
[8:33] It works nicely.
[8:34] I can disconnect the battery when it’s not being used.
[8:40] Thanks for watching and I’ll see you in the next video.
[8:43] Don’t forget to subscribe!

HELP SUPPORT MY WORK: If you're feeling flush then please stop by Patreon Or you can make a one off donation via ko-fi
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Chris Greening

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A collection of slightly mad projects, instructive/educational videos, and generally interesting stuff. Building projects around the Arduino and ESP32 platforms - we'll be exploring AI, Computer Vision, Audio, 3D Printing - it may get a bit eclectic...

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